Sunnyside Bench

location: Sunnyside Bench

objective: dry rock

weather: clear and fine, about 60 degrees F

On my way through Groveland I picked up a hitchhiker on his way to the Valley. He was a blacksmith on holiday from Israel. I think his trip was part of a celebration for completing his two year obligatory service in the military. Either way, he was a friendly sort and the time passed quickly.

We made a quick stop in El Cap Meadow and he ran around in an effort to generate body heat. I think he was also intoxicated by his first encounter with El Capitan. Watching him sprint around the snow covered meadow in his t-shirt was very funny. This was about ten o'clock. It was not too warm out.

higher and lower Cathedral Spires

from El Cap Meadow

I took a photo of the Cathedral Spires and then we got back in the car. We stopped again on South Side Drive so he could have his picture taken with the falls in the background. It was a beautiful shot. He stomped around in the snow a bit more and then we continued on our way.

I told him he should stay in Camp 4 because it is the cheapest place. He wanted to know if he could just walk into the woods and pitch his tent. I tried to explain why that was not a good idea. I think he heard me.

We decided the visitor center would be the best place for him to strike out on his own. We said our goodbyes in the parking lot behind the deli.

Now what? Remembering how good Sunnyside Bench looked from the road, I decided that would be my destination. I also thought it would be good to know how to find the swimming hole on top by the time Summer arrives. Halfway up I snapped this photo of a snowy Half Dome.

Half Dome

from Sunnyside Bench

Right above the ledge where I stopped for the photo I found my first Indian Paint Brush of the season! By this time the sun was blasting and I was toasty warm.

Giant Red Indian Paint Brush

I looked up this flower up in my Sierra Nevada Natural History Book and was surprised to find May to September as their flowering period. I knew I was lucky to see one on the last day of February.

Further evidence for the concept of micro-climates...

Castilleja miniata subsp. miniata

I guess those little fellas love the sun on those south facing rocks as much as I do.

Giant Red Indian Paint Brush

Anyway. When I got to the top of the bench I took my shoes off so I could walk around in the mud and grass. I found the climber's trail that leads right (east) and back down to the start. I figured I would head left so I could find those swimming holes before descending. The trail was clear. The sun was shinning. A little fresh deer scat. Some more mud. Wet rock. Nice barefoot walking really. Then a sound.

I had surprised a family of deer napping on the trail. Mom and baby got up at first, but soon laid back down when they realized I was not a threat. The buck never really moved the whole time. He seemed perfectly content to watch me from where he was.

perfect day at Sunnyside Bench

Ahwahnee Meadow

compare this photo to the one I took a few weeks ago

misty meadow

winter wear

Reed's Pinnacle

location: Reed's Pinnacle, Yosemite National Park

conditions: February with strong hints of spring

Yesterday was perfect. The weather. The climbing. And the climbing partners. It was shirts off weather at Reed's Pinnacle by mid-day, and we were soaking it up.

Yes, I know I always say that. But really, the forecast for this entire week looks INCREDIBLE for the Valley. It hurts my brain to think about how good the climbing is going to be this week while I am working. Ouch.

Anyway, before yesterday I had never made it to Reeds. Having been there I realize what I was missing. The first two pitches of Reed's Direct are killer. I grabbed the rack at the base of pitch two (yes I know hardmen just do them both as one) and set out for what I thought would be one hundred feet of locker 5.9 handjams followed by an short 5.9 off-width (OW) finish. I climb the first five feet by pinching constrictions and jamming odd pods. I wiggle in a few nuts and tell myself the glory jams are just a few feet higher. After 90 feet of odd and physical jamming I'm finally resting at a ledge. Wow! That was one tough 5.9.

granite

P2 of reed's direct

When I started up the final OW section I was actually happy, for the first time in my climbing life, to make some fist jams. Somehow, that last section was a relief compared to the funky-ness of the lower half.

lower merced canyon

w/ climber, cookie cliff, and pat and jack's behind

So, enough whingin' and moanin'. I build a belay at the ledge. Put my partner on belay, and start enjoying the sun. The waterfalls are cranking down valley above Pat and Jack's. (Anyone know what creek that is? I can't think of it.)

stone groove

Its a perfect spring day in February.

We rap off from the ledge and then head over to Stone Groove. My buddy had a good lead. Stone Grove was tougher than I had thought it would be. Maybe the winter is turning me into a softie. Bummer.

stone groove

We finish up with that climb and then trot over to the base of Lunatic Fringe. It looks awesome! Oh wait, two folks are already racking up at the base. Shoot. None of us feel like hovering over two strangers while they trying a 140 foot 10c so we shuffle back to the car.

Guess that just shows you should jump on the gems when they are open!

We drive around in circles because of the typical Valley detours. Pick up some supplies at the store. Then we finish the day with the two mellow pitches of Jamcrack! Yes I know, doing a cruiser 5.9 when you said you had your eyes on a 10c. What can I say? The light was fading and so was the energy.

pitch one of jamcrack

Summary: thankful to have experienced the Valley in peak condition.

after the storm...

location: Yosemite National Park

date: feb 6 & 7

weather: wet

I woke up on Saturday morning and knew I had to go to t

he park despite the rain. Maybe things would clear up tomorrow. Anything is possible in Yosemite, right? After twelve days of work non-stop I needed some space.

The drive on 120 went quickly. Not too much traffic or ice on the roads. I grabbed a spot in a deserted Camp 4, and then headed up to check out the Rostrum. I had heard there were some dry pitches near the halfway ledge. After post holing and sliding down to the ledge I didn't see much of anything dry.

Rainy/Snowy Rostrum

rostrum from below halfway ledge

fern and moss

wolf lichen

It was starting to get dark so I snapped a few more photos, and then went back to the warm car.

After a quick rainy day dirtbag dinner next to the bear box, I caught the shuttle to the Ahwahnee Lodge to write a few letters and high class it for a bit. The couches are big. The fires even bigger. And the WIFI even freer.

Waiting for the shuttle back to my damp tent in Camp 4 the snow was falling at 9.30 on Saturday evening. What would tomorrow bring? Rain, snow? Was there any chance of climbing anything? Where would I find a partner. Things were grim.

But then I woke up to this...And I knew I had made the right choice...

Royal Arches and Half Dome from Ahwanee Meadow

Sentinel after storm

(too bad this photo doesn't show the whole thing, it looked straight out of the Himalaya)

Royal Arches and Half Dome

after winter storm

from Ahwahnee Meadow

Royal Arches with rolling mist

So there I was strolling about. Snapping photos left and right, watching the walls dry out. Maybe there would be some climbing after all! A quick text to some friends in El Portal. What? They are going x-country skiing on the Tioga Road. Would I like to join them? Oh, would I ever.

And so that is how I ended up spending sunday sliding around in the snow on the Tioga Road. We made tracks all the way to Gin Flat. Had a drink and a bite

road closed to automobiles

break time at Gin Flat

snowy fir trees

So, I didn't get to sink any killer hand jams, or pinch tiny holds, but the Valley still delivered. It wasn't what I was expecting. It was even better.