Reed's Pinnacle

location: Reed's Pinnacle, Yosemite National Park

conditions: February with strong hints of spring

Yesterday was perfect. The weather. The climbing. And the climbing partners. It was shirts off weather at Reed's Pinnacle by mid-day, and we were soaking it up.

Yes, I know I always say that. But really, the forecast for this entire week looks INCREDIBLE for the Valley. It hurts my brain to think about how good the climbing is going to be this week while I am working. Ouch.

Anyway, before yesterday I had never made it to Reeds. Having been there I realize what I was missing. The first two pitches of Reed's Direct are killer. I grabbed the rack at the base of pitch two (yes I know hardmen just do them both as one) and set out for what I thought would be one hundred feet of locker 5.9 handjams followed by an short 5.9 off-width (OW) finish. I climb the first five feet by pinching constrictions and jamming odd pods. I wiggle in a few nuts and tell myself the glory jams are just a few feet higher. After 90 feet of odd and physical jamming I'm finally resting at a ledge. Wow! That was one tough 5.9.

granite

P2 of reed's direct

When I started up the final OW section I was actually happy, for the first time in my climbing life, to make some fist jams. Somehow, that last section was a relief compared to the funky-ness of the lower half.

lower merced canyon

w/ climber, cookie cliff, and pat and jack's behind

So, enough whingin' and moanin'. I build a belay at the ledge. Put my partner on belay, and start enjoying the sun. The waterfalls are cranking down valley above Pat and Jack's. (Anyone know what creek that is? I can't think of it.)

stone groove

Its a perfect spring day in February.

We rap off from the ledge and then head over to Stone Groove. My buddy had a good lead. Stone Grove was tougher than I had thought it would be. Maybe the winter is turning me into a softie. Bummer.

stone groove

We finish up with that climb and then trot over to the base of Lunatic Fringe. It looks awesome! Oh wait, two folks are already racking up at the base. Shoot. None of us feel like hovering over two strangers while they trying a 140 foot 10c so we shuffle back to the car.

Guess that just shows you should jump on the gems when they are open!

We drive around in circles because of the typical Valley detours. Pick up some supplies at the store. Then we finish the day with the two mellow pitches of Jamcrack! Yes I know, doing a cruiser 5.9 when you said you had your eyes on a 10c. What can I say? The light was fading and so was the energy.

pitch one of jamcrack

Summary: thankful to have experienced the Valley in peak condition.